Have finished my sill and arch repairs on my Mk 2.5 and want to encourage others wondering if they can do it themselves.
So, ummed and aghed (sic) as to wether to get stuck in or not. Am buying a late Mk3 or Mk4 in 18 months when the mortgage is paid off and had the choice of, would it get through next MOT with advisory again, bodge it it to pass MOT or proper job? Rose to the challenge and wanted the learning curve so ordered the panels from our favourite shop.

This is the state at the start:


Sized the repair panel on top of existing bodywork to get a maximum outline and drew that on:

First cut into the wing revealed this:

So as you can see my regularly unblocked drain holes did bugger all to prevent this. They don't drain between the wing and the middle strengthener. They don't drain between the middle strengthener and the inner sill. They only drain the cavity inboard of this where the hood compartment rubber drain tubes pass through. Decided that when reattaching new that I wouldn't seam seal the bottom edge to allow it to drain if needed. Already decided to use Dynax S50 cavity wax from Bilt Hamber. Spoke to Michael Bilthamber and his oppo in the lab Pete who were both very helpful. After emailing pics this was their recomendation.
All cleaned up:

and primed

How I didn't cause futher damage to the inner wing whose condition was as yet unknown I ground off the corner edge on the outside of the panel and snapped the old wing off but not the arch, if that makes sense. Then tin snipped the old arch off between the original spot welds and then dressed down.
The 4 holes above the cut were for self tappers to hold the new panel flat against and steady. Used a die grinder to cut through both old and new panels together to get an accurate joint.
Fitted a "joggler" to give me something behind to weld to rather than possibly blowing holes through two 20 gauge edges of a butt joint.:

Drilled holes above and clamped a 2" strip of repair panel at each "spot weld" with mole grips after dressing the back of each hole to hold the joggler flat for spot welding with MIG welder. Gently used water pump pliers to ease the joggler back into the cavity to prevent it from making the join proud.
In the door jamb after first cut to remove old section was left with this:
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You can see where I have drilled out just the top of the spot welds. Above the spot welds used the die grinder to cut out the section of old wing to make way for that edge of the repair panel to sit in. Outline can be seen on 3rd pic, in the door jamb/reveal. Just continue the felt marker line down from the airbag sticker.
Panel in spot welded in:

and dressed off with flapper wheel:

And bodge/filller in:

Did do both sides! This side which had appeared to be in better nick wasn't as it was full of bodge. Needed a little plating with a strenghtener:

Etch Primer:

High Build Primer:
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Then the dust settled:

Cavity wax going in:


Cavity wax leaking back out, also went in from the boot inside each wing behind the join:

Back home, back together, MOT passed and after flatting off, cutting compound, clay bar on the old paintwork, polish and wax she looks this:


And drop garage door, go on cruise up the Fjords and round the Med
I'd never tackled bodywork as deep as this. Took a lot longer than I thought it would, proceeded very carefully though I suppose. Pleased I didn't bodge it or wing it through next test. Can now either turn it into a track slag when I buy the new one or sell on knowing it's had a professional repair and is structurally sound.
Thanks for looking, hope it's inspired some people.
Cheers, Quad.