Meet Maisey - Page 6 - Members Rides - MX5Nutz Forum - Page 6

Jump to content

These ads only show for users who are not registered or logged in


Photo

Meet Maisey

NB 1.8 Turbo Gold Evolution Orange Racing Bronze Rot

  • Please log in to reply
117 replies to this topic

#101 cjay89

cjay89

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 327 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wakefield

Posted 16 February 2017 - 10:30 PM

Loving the effort of this build - going to turn out looking great
  • 0

#102 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:33 AM

And on the 7th day

 

Warning - big update with lots of photo's - grab a brew, we could be here a while.

 

Having pretty much de-rusted every single nut, bolt and suspension component that didn't go for powder coating, it was time to attack the body.

 

33360392892_3596ef2772_z.jpg

 

32673278544_d417544b0f_z.jpg

 

33517266935_87e972cae6_z.jpg

 

32702406173_0e1153c51e_z.jpg

 

Assessing the body, it was clear that whilst there was a considerable amount of rust, 90% of the panels in question are fairly thick steel and the rust was superficial.  Therefore I broke out the grinder, attached the wire wheel, got PPE'd up (I hate tiny shards of wire sticking in your hands - Gauntlets = Win) and started to attack the areas of concern.  This cleared off the surface rust and 19 year old underseal but still left pitting with corrosion and contaminants in.  This is where the Deox-C Gel comes into play.  The gel can be painted on, left to do it's magic and washed off, leaving (in theory) a clinically clean surface.  Ultimately some areas of rust needed treating a few times, which I had neither the time nor patience for so the Kurust rust converter also made another appearance to ensure any last traces were treated before applying a zinc rich primer.

 

The result after grinding:-

 

33388514851_dfaed0a015_z.jpg

 

33476076626_88ab6f70a8_z.jpg

 

32702356143_ef7451738f_z.jpg

 

33360312192_1920837ab0_z.jpg

 

Spot welds looking healthy...

33133422180_22b46d8371_z.jpg

 

A thorough wash with hot soapy water and it's time to apply the Deox-C gel.  Thick paint brush, liberally applied and then cling film'd to stop it drying out whilst working.

 

33360384682_a3faf1cd9e_z.jpg

 

33133468160_73649909a8_z.jpg

 

33360379562_9b3188d583_z.jpg

 

32673266694_c6d7ba3b5b_z.jpg

 

An hour or so later and the gel turns a yellowy colour as it pulls the rust away from the surface.

 

33360307902_c03c20da14_z.jpg

 

33517199975_98bf571680_z.jpg

 

Another thorough wash to clear the gel and the contaminants it held and it left quite a shiny surface behind, with the exception of the more corroded areas which could have done with another treatment.

 

 

32702386853_b270fff8c0_z.jpg

 

33360350472_8825e82e8f_z.jpg

 

33476110836_54bd8593b3_z.jpg

 

Rear tie down hooks definitely needed another treatment

32702382363_5179a4e6cd_z.jpg

 

 

33360342332_831c88710b_z.jpg

 

Kurust was then applied everywhere with exposed steel and overlapping joints for a 'belt and braces' approach.

 

33360341962_c71683106f_z.jpg

 

33360340122_dcbb97cd64_z.jpg

 

33360339342_aeab54799d_z.jpg

 

32702379063_a14a7788f9_z.jpg

 

32673244344_84767c240e_z.jpg

 

You get the idea.  There were a few other areas I treated but didn't take photo's off, such as the rear end of the frame rails and the overlap joint at the rear of the floor pan where it meets the rear bulkhead.

 

Let the Kurust dry and it's time for the zinc primer.

 

33476058936_f2fe4cbb37_z.jpg

 

33517195345_e2e981ae18_z.jpg

 

32702349193_4609cd0bd4_z.jpg

 

32702347573_3b865d3910_z.jpg

 

With the zinc primer drying off I gave everywhere that was to be re-undersealed a cleaning with a wire brush and brake cleaner.  The wheel arches were covered in road grime and over-spray and were also to be undersealed, even though they were done last year.

 

From this

 

33517194015_d25470c112_z.jpg

 

To this

 

33517192535_e22d1112bf_z.jpg

 

33517193935_d61919dd04_z.jpg

 

33517192165_a795fd8be6_z.jpg

 

32702345553_16eb2a92c7_z.jpg

 

33517189465_195c49e7ba_z.jpg

 

Beautiful.

 

The front end was in fairly decent condition and only required minimal work.  It did receive some Kurust under the sub-frame mounting points and another underseal on the arches and front longits.  Unfortunately I didn't take any photo's but it wasn't that interesting.

 

With the body taken care of it was on to rebuilding the suspension.


  • 0

#103 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:34 AM

The front upper wishbones were the first to receive their polybushes, a relatively easy job, which fooled me into thinking the other bushes would be just as easy.  Unfortunately it took both Sam and I, a threaded rod, a lot of patience, and sacrificing any feeling in my finger tips to do the majority of the other bushes.  

 

33476121526_72dc994a15_z.jpg

 

Due to the amount of grease on my hands, and everything I touched, I didn't take any photo's of this.  All bushes in, bearings inserted I had something that looked like this:-

 

32673243074_2da9dec325_z.jpg

 

33476099146_576e341342_z.jpg

 

33360331422_6fa52ebac2_z.jpg

 

33476092836_c44fb625a5_z.jpg

 

So with the wishbones and hubs ready, I grabbed the rear sub-frame off the pallet and started building it up.

 

The first job was the rear brake line and distribution block.  The old one had to be cut to get it off and I had a new distribution block with the braided brake hoses I ordered last year.  A 25ft reel of kunifer brake pipe and some fittings ordered off ebay and it finally felt like the car was actually being re-built and going back together.

 

32702351463_584e33a74e_z.jpg

 

33517197005_6144ccc503_z.jpg

 

Sam cleaned up and painted the rear of the diff casing with the Hammerite black used on the front hubs and then we continued with the rear sub-frame build.  

 

33133402170_501591c9e4_z.jpg

 

All new camber bolts.

 

33133403090_482eecb417_z.jpg

 

Polybush diff void fillers, up-rated rear anti roll bar, semi-cleaned up drive shafts, and hubs fitted and it was ready to be transferred onto the jack and bolted up to the car.

 

33133401160_cf8bff86c2_z.jpg

 

The front sub-frame was fitted in a rush the same night in order to get the engine crane I had borrowed back to its owner, hence no photo's.

 

With both sub-frames back in the car I continued with rebuilding the back end up.  Final touches to the Meister's, including re-doing the pre-load (12mm rear, 2mm front), before putting them on.

 

33133395740_14b3548bb9_z.jpg

 

33133398590_95b52b9e82_z.jpg

 

33133398310_b7aa6fd988_z.jpg

 

I'd also ordered many new bright zinc finished M8 bolts in varying sizes to replace the old non-critical bolts such as the ABS bracket and harness.

 

33476030406_80d5b51bc2_z.jpg

 

It wasn't long before I had an issue.  Firstly, I had misplaced one of the bolts that goes through the bottom of the rear shocks into the captive nut in the wishbone.  One order with MX5Parts later and I had a brand new one in hand.  I went to fit it, torqued it up and.... it kept spinning.  It completely strippedthe nut and bolt in-fact and lead me to have to cut up my freshly powder coated wishbones to get it out.  The other side with its 19 year old bolt torqued up fine, what was going on!?  To say I was a bit pissed would be an understatement.

 

32702335603_a9768c39be_z.jpg

 

32702337093_f0480224d5_z.jpg

 

33133394150_781362a22b_z.jpg

 

After I had calmed down, I cleaned up the wishbone, touched up with some hammerite and recycled the captive nut's out of my old wishbones (with cracked bush housings).  A warranty claim with MX5Parts and yet another new genuine bolt was in hand.  Carefully does it.

 

On to the next disaster - I had only ordered one front lower ball joint, as the other one was fine and with a re-grease and new boot would go back on the car.  I had wanted the IL motorsport product but they were out of stock.  As I refused to pay £80 for a single OEM part I opted for a 'quality' aftermarket part.  The brand of ball joint received in the MX5Parts order was 'First Line' and quality was definitely not what it was.  Basically, the hole they drill through the casting for the long bolt to go through (fore-aft) was not centrally positioned, meaning the ball joint wanted to sit at an angle.  I sacrificed an old bolt and smashed it through to align it (replacing it with a brand new bolt afterwards) however, this resulted in the misalignment of the top bolt that sits under the shock.

 

First Line lower ball joint

 

33517177935_bf85b3caac_z.jpg

 

OEM lower ball joint

 

33133388900_23a7945af8_z.jpg

 

After considering whether or not to send it back, I continued to work with it, got it fitted and torqued up, and convinced myself that it wasn't far enough out of position to cause an issue when it came to alignment.

 

I had however forgot to order a new boot for the other side so I ended up buying a 'Moog' aftermarket ball joint for the other side.  This one fit perfectly like the OEM one.  Note to self - avoid First Line.


  • 0

#104 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 19 March 2017 - 12:34 AM

Having built one side of the front end up I started to play around with the brake disc shields I mentioned in the last post, wasting pretty much an entire day -  here's how things went.

 

I grabbed a cereal box out of the recycling bin and put it over the hub

 

33133386630_47f432d202_z.jpg

 

33517175975_e01ae47377_z.jpg

 

Trying it on the car, bending in several different ways and deciding what needed protecting from heat & dust I drew around the circumference of the brake disc + 5mm and discarded the rest.  I also found a position for a 2.5" hose to be fitted for cooling.

 

33517174745_dab49b4a47_z.jpg

 

And as if by magic, here it is in sheet steel.

 

33360266042_67a4045748_z.jpg

 

Having finalised the bends it was into the vice and a rubber mallet and some brute force made short work of it.

 

33517172195_83fe9178d8_z.jpg

 

33517167025_0ee09aefff_z.jpg

 

33475997326_20236554a1_z.jpg

 

32673181044_99f24b5282_z.jpg

 

Test fitting on the car - Upper and lower ball joints protected as well as the track rod end.  This was the maximum useful surface area I could protect without clashing with the brake caliper carrier.

 

32673186794_39a5645e22_z.jpg

 

33388477901_aa16ee6dca_z.jpg

 

33517169855_29d7fe776f_z.jpg

 

It did clash with the brake disc however when fitted so needed tweaking slightly to avoid touching the ball joint boots or the disc.

 

33133376380_efd6f4a9f6_z.jpg

 

32673183744_9752969c85_z.jpg

 

33388472691_5c94b3c47c_z.jpg

 

Clearance checks good, I then cut off some left over 2.5" exhaust pipe at a small angle and test fitted.

 

33388466251_9912c7e073_z.jpg

 

32673178884_85eb996a4f_z.jpg

 

33517163295_60a3c54e04_z.jpg

 

32673180014_ca96f9179f_z.jpg

 

I had to cut down the top section slightly to clear the brake caliper carrier and then produce the opposite handed part.  This what I ended up with before running them down to Sam's work to get welded up.

 

32673180014_ca96f9179f_z.jpg

 

Not the best welds in the world due to how thin the metal is but it's robustly attached and hidden out of sight.

 

32673173984_5a6fe489e9_z.jpg

 

33388460271_952b6fe60a_z.jpg

 

Ready for some reinforced flexible hose fed from somewhere up-front when the car gets to that stage.

 

33388463511_dffc03ca4e_z.jpg

 

33388455771_7252e42000_z.jpg

 

32673169034_9c115d83c3_z.jpg

 

32702317383_679642a4bd_z.jpg

 

32673167104_5b1862300f_z.jpg

 

Happy with the result it was time to chose whether to fire some lacquer at them and run them in a brushed steel look, or to paint them black.  Given the subtle-ish look I'm going for, I opted for black.

 

33360252272_b8e19b9878_z.jpg

 

32673166194_3f5385c575_z.jpg

 

33360249762_b9b47a6219_z.jpg

 

The final product.

 

33360249042_05f01def15_z.jpg

 

32673162414_e174ccfc1d_z.jpg

 

33475983986_1287099b97_z.jpg

 

Barely visible from the side.

 

32702306523_41254b16db_z.jpg

 

32702305203_b9be020538_z.jpg

 

33475981366_38a6301eb7_z.jpg

 

In other news, roll bar number 2 received!  Roll bar number 1 had some clearance issues with my glass rear screen and some cosmetic issues which, after several conversations with Grant @ GC fabs, he kindly agreed to resolve.  Now fits great with no issues putting the roof up and down.

 

33517274565_db563b5937_z.jpg

 

33476121526_72dc994a15_z.jpg

 

33517167025_0ee09aefff_z.jpg

 

33475997326_20236554a1_z.jpg

 

32673181044_99f24b5282_z.jpg

 

And with that:

Consisting of, polybushed everything, diff void fillers, zinc plated and powder coated everything, new rear bearings, new track rod ends, new lower ball joints, new to me MeisterR's, new camber bolts, a new ABS sensor to replace the one I killed, braided brake hoses all round, another brake fluid change, heat sleeving applied to the front left hand brake to protect from down-pipe heat, up-rated front and rear anti roll bars, new rear drop links, de-rusted and wax protected all bolts, and re-welded the boost pipes that had developed small cracks, and fitting roll bar number 2 -

the sub-frame / suspension overhaul is complete!!!

 

Or is it....

 

Remember that pesky power steering I decided to change, well the bracket I designed finally got sent off for 3D printing and came back...

 

33135509730_b54fa850e9_z.jpg

 

32673231184_a2d4e988c4_z.jpg

 

33476079446_f9487894de_z.jpg

 

33517214525_7f99b60347_z.jpg

 

This moves the power steering reservoir about 3 inches forward to mitigate the clash between the air filter and the reservoir.

 

Popping in some M6 nuts the freshly painted reservoir can be fitted after the bracket is bolted to the front longit.

 

33133340900_4a08e7b4d1_z.jpg

 

33388439711_3f3236cb07_z.jpg

 

33517133555_9f6f773a04_z.jpg

 

33133338760_8d41eecab1_z.jpg

 

With the reservoir removed and the pump union rotated, 3m of 10mm ID & 1m of 16mm ID fuel hose was ordered to replace the old system.  The majority of the 3m of 10mm hose was ran from the return side of the rack, up in front of the radiator attached to the top of the intercooler, where the old cooling loop used to sit, back again and into the reservoir.  For the feed side a short section of the 15mm hose was used to create link the reservoir and pump together with enough flex to stretch without breaking anything when then engine moves.  In my opinion it looks much neater and fixes the issues of the air filter to reservoir clash / rattle.

 

After what has felt like an eternity, we dropped the car down and rolled it out of the garage, only to find it now sat even lower than before!

 

32702298003_59d468457d_z.jpg

 

33388436351_27d2fea3fa_z.jpg

 

Whilst looking great, it was a tad impractical.  Not only did it scrape on every speed hump on the way to the alignment place (another nightmare - got cancelled on the way there, so we went to PSI tuning in Newcastle instead, great place who aligned her with no issues for half the price the other place wanted), with the camber not set the wheels also rubbed on the arch liners and made some funky noises.  I spent that afternoon jacking her up before heading over to PSI for the alignment.  The car now runs about 310mm wheel centre to arch all round.  With the old geo settings applied (WIM Fast Road Evo) the car now handles excellently and glides over bumps and composes itself really well in the corners. 

 

I am really impressed with the results, although I am thankful its over.  It was killing me having the car off the road again and working on it every weekend.  Time to drive and enjoy it now! Speaking of which, the Nurburgring is booked for the end of April!

 

Cheap summer fun? Yeah right.

 

/Thread

 

Wilson


  • 0

#105 alhendo1

alhendo1

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 894 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:paisley

Posted 19 March 2017 - 01:19 AM

Well...great to see my favourite thread back....epic rejuvenation abounds as usual....considering how the car first pitched up this is an amazing transformation. ...I took your advice and grabbed another voddy&coke for the read (it is Sat nite/Sunday morning after all)....fantastic work as usual. Respect.
  • 1
http://www.mx5nutz.c...howtopic=272554
My 1.6 S Special Import Build Thread.

#106 bucko

bucko

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 181 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Darlington

Posted 19 March 2017 - 07:28 AM

fantastic job on those brake disc shields. The car is looking great.

 

Mick


  • 2

#107 benhampton_26

benhampton_26

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 317 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Westbury, Wiltshire

Posted 19 March 2017 - 09:21 AM

Love love love! Great work as usual Wilson, will be sure to refer back to this thread when I eventually get round to doing mine! Looks like you've saved another 5 from the scrappy for the foreseeable future

What polybushes did you opt for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 1

#108 Rocky eunos

Rocky eunos

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 763 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Southampton UK

Posted 19 March 2017 - 09:25 AM

10 out of 10 for attention to detail here.... 😎😎
  • 1

Mk1 Black Eunos 1.8 S-Special - First MX5 (Aug '15)


#109 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 19 March 2017 - 11:18 AM

Cheers the for comments guys. I've been meaning to write that last post for a while but been too busy (and then obviously it gets longer as you do more work in between haha).

The polybushes are super pro's finest. They were in the Moss sale a few months ago and I'd rather fit and forget than have some horrible plastic off eBay that could squeak/or stick in a 100 miles.

Cheers
  • 0

#110 Rocky eunos

Rocky eunos

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 763 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Southampton UK

Posted 19 March 2017 - 03:17 PM

Superpro bushes are now even cheaper at moss!!! I must have picked mine up when you got yours just before Xmas?
  • 0

Mk1 Black Eunos 1.8 S-Special - First MX5 (Aug '15)


#111 Darren's636

Darren's636

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 733 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Dorset

Posted 19 March 2017 - 03:27 PM

epic.
  • 0

#112 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 19 March 2017 - 06:21 PM

Superpro bushes are now even cheaper at moss!!! I must have picked mine up when you got yours just before Xmas?

Yes mate, I got mine just before Christmas on the last day of the sale.  I noticed they were cheaper in their new sale :-/ balls.  Oh well, they're paid for now haha.

 

I've just taken her out for a drive, what a machine - think I'm going to use her as a daily next week too.  Although the aftermarket gear knob is now rattling inside when accelerating (a worrying noise that sounds like death rattle) so I'm going have to reverse engineer the adaptor and get a new one made.


  • 0

#113 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 20 March 2017 - 10:58 PM

Here's a couple of obligatory photos from the very wet and windy drive out on Sunday afternoon following an oil & filter change and re-tensioning of the cam belt.

The engine now doesn't make a strange whine at 2000RPM and has quietened down quite a bit (the old oil was rather filthy and contaminated as to be expected circa 600miles after a quick rebuild) it does however still have a tapping noise when cold from the top end.

Next on the list before Nurburg is radiator ducting and finally re-fitteing the undertray (its been in the corner of the garage for 18 months)

d0b5acc31d6f110610753df68f7ba38e.jpg

ae3c29fd109282eeb3dac41e89627cb3.jpg



Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
  • 0

#114 nibnob21

nibnob21

    Advanced Nutzer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2301 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:South Derbyshire

Posted 21 March 2017 - 08:26 AM

Good effort with the work on the underside. I couldn't bring myself to do the subframes too - I figured they were bulky enough that some surface rust wasn't going to suddenly cause the car to collapse haha. Maybe I'll do a bit of tidying up on them at some point...

 

Good job with the DIY brake shields too.


  • 0

#115 Jacksheps

Jacksheps

    Spends way too much time on Nutz

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5721 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol

Posted 26 March 2017 - 08:50 PM

Eccellent work! Good luck at the ring
  • 0
IMG_20160531_164501_zps4dawbznv_edit_148

#116 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 04 April 2017 - 12:19 PM

Cheers NibNob, I figured I'd chuck everything in for piece of mind, some of the interior baffles have rusted through but it doesn't appear to be any detriment to how the car handles.

 

Thanks Jack, bit nervous this time as I've actually got a quick-ish car rather than a stocker I can happily tootle around in haha.

 

I've put some more miles on the car and turned the boost back up to how it was mapped (and over-boost up slightly for the odd occasion it gets within 0.5psi of it), it is rather fast!  Flat shift is now also working a treat, something I wanted to use at Santa Pod this weekend but unfortunately I turned up 5 minutes too late and the queue had already been closed - annoyed!

 

Having said that, it was probably a good job I didn't go on the strip.  On the way home some spirited driving shows that I am still using oil (unsure if acceleration/deceleration or just a temporary symptom of the rebuild - I suspect valve seals) and yet another power steering belt came off!!!

 

I need to sort the pulley alignment issue before the 'Ring, when it goes the steering is incredibly heavy.  The only thing I can think of is that pump itself has somehow become misaligned (I've had it off twice & the alternator belt has never fallen off).  I shall attempt to re-seat the mount and shim it if necessary to get the correct alignment.


  • 0

#117 Wooody

Wooody

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 137 posts
  • Location:Sheffield

Posted 11 May 2017 - 04:52 PM

Wow! Epic thread, really enjoyed reading it. Huge and slightly crazy amount of work you've put into the build. And apparently you don't have any patience? Just stubborn? Well done!
  • 0

#118 willeywilson

willeywilson

    Nutz regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Stoke-on-Trent

Posted 27 September 2017 - 09:09 PM

Willkommen in Deutschland

 

A very belated update - the Nurburgring trip seems like a life time ago.  Nevertheless, here's a quick-ish lap from the Sunday for your viewing pleasure.  The lap was a 9:03 BTG.  The car has so much more potential than this, but cheap summer tyres and a relative lack of seat time up until this point meant this was all that could be gained (could have been sub 9 minute if it wasn't for the accident and clipping the kerb - oops).  Sorry for the sound, my mic is clearly not up to the job so had to resort to the Go Pro Audio.

 

 

On a more serious note, I span it on the Monday morning in very wet conditions and knocked the tracking out.  That was a fun drive back to the shuttle afterwards.

On top of that, whilst the car performed well, it did drink oil. A lot of oil.

 

Therefore, sometime in April I bought a spare engine - more like I bought a spare cylinder head for £200 and got a free block, all ancillaries and 5 speed box to boot.  The intention was to take the cylinder head off of the spare engine, refurbish it and fitting it to my bottom end, due to the stem seals on my head being shot and it making a very strange tapping noise. This rolling disaster of epic proportion has taken up the better part of the last 4 months, which has consisted of new cylinder head, changing the cylinder head again, fitting an oil cooler, fitting a new turbo, bigger injectors and eventually a complete engine rebuild.  

 

All this and more will be discussed in a separate post.

 

Cheers

 

Wilson


  • 0





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users