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Undoing The Crank Pulley Bolt


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#1 pcaligari68

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 06:42 AM

So.. I am currently taking my car apart to change the water pump. I need to undo the crank pulley bolt. I am sure it will be tight and turn the engine... so need to know all the safe methods everyone has tried.

I have read you can out the car in gear but that sounds like it will stress things. Also read you can "make a tool to bolt it in place" but that's as detailed as the post went.

Also told to take the starter motor out and wedge something in there but really don't want to be taking more off the car than necessary.

Over to you folks for a good roadside solution.



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#2 B_hawk111

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 06:45 AM

I did mine in gear, I had to get my wife to sit and put her foot hard on the brakes, and then it was probably a 5' breaker bar to get it to go!

But it did, that was nearly 4 years ago, no problems!
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#3 Martin Y

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 05:07 PM

5th gear, handbrake on and a 2 foot breaker bar has always worked for me. 

It does feel a bit disconcerting how far it turns back before it goes tight as all the backlash gets taken up, but going gently but firmly seems to work okay.


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#4 pcaligari68

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 05:34 PM

5th gear, handbrake on and a 2 foot breaker bar has always worked for me.
It does feel a bit disconcerting how far it turns back before it goes tight as all the backlash gets taken up, but going gently but firmly seems to work okay.

Tried and must be a wimp as could not get to undo... probably doesn't help my breaker bar is too fat for gap and anything that does fit is too short to provide enough torque...

Will eat some shredded wheat and try again!

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#5 corders

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 08:43 PM

Can get a locking tool for not much dolla

https://www.autolink...ance-9732-p.asp
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#6 pcaligari68

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Posted 16 June 2020 - 09:10 PM

Can get a locking tool for not much dolla

https://www.autolink...ance-9732-p.asp

I can fabricate something like that but it does show me I need to remove a bit more from the car... looks like the outer part of the pulley can come off... why doesn't the blooming book say so...

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#7 Martin Y

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 01:27 PM

It's only recently that I discovered the pulley comes apart into a separate boss and pulley/damper, and it took some eager pounding on the bench to make that happen. So I wouldn't assume that bit will be easy.

If I were making a crank locking tool, I think I'd at least try to make something that reaches into the accessory pulley, though I can see that makes everything a lot more difficult.
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#8 dadbif

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 04:06 PM

I didn’t use a locking tool, in gear and brakes did the job, with a brief tap from a lump hammer and chisel to assist...
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#9 pcaligari68

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Posted 17 June 2020 - 04:53 PM

It's only recently that I discovered the pulley comes apart into a separate boss and pulley/damper, and it took some eager pounding on the bench to make that happen. So I wouldn't assume that bit will be easy.

If I were making a crank locking tool, I think I'd at least try to make something that reaches into the accessory pulley, though I can see that makes everything a lot more difficult.

Mine came away quite easily. Just had to tap it with a hammer gently each side to make the rust let go... some wire brushing and paint going on that part me thinks.

Only thing worrying me now is lining it all up again. I can't see any marks to line up to, which is what I would see in my motorbike engine... there is a pin on each cam and the crank... I am assuming those need to be in specific places when I reassemble it. That is for another day though.

Waiting on delivery of the locking tool so next job will cleaning up and painting the steel bits and bobs currently residing on my shed floor. Might even push the boat out and put some colour on the thermostat housing.

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#10 carl s

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Posted 18 June 2020 - 12:01 PM

Pretty sure I made a locking tool out of a bit of 3-400mm long angled metal, I just drilled two holes and bolted it to just two of the crank holes then it braced itself against the garage floor. Just flip it round the other way to tighten up  :thumb-up:


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#11 pcaligari68

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Posted 27 June 2020 - 08:24 AM

Trying to out it all back together but it keeps raining on me... so far crank oil seal swapped over... why does the sun only come out when I am working!!

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#12 pcaligari68

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 07:06 AM

New hoses going in... I will be putting some VHT paint in that heat shield over the winter I think. Almost ready to start putting crank pulley back on with new belt and waterpump.151504c9faef65801a89c6b841f39d87.jpg

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#13 carl s

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 09:08 AM

Your heater hoses are the wrong way round sorry, they don't cross over. Aftermarket hoses sometimes come with extra length which you can trim off if needed.

 

library pic:

 

8020205545_839d34f9ce.jpg


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mk1 1991 Eunos with RS NB drivetrain: https://www.mx5nutz....howtopic=322586

ex - mk3 2006 2.0 sport

ex - mk2 1999 1.8is JRSC


#14 pcaligari68

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 09:27 AM

Your heater hoses are the wrong way round sorry, they don't cross over. Aftermarket hoses sometimes come with extra length which you can trim off if needed.

library pic:

8020205545_839d34f9ce.jpg

That probably explains why they were awkward... thanks for that... will swap them over now.

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#15 Martin Y

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 12:12 PM

I suppose it doesn't really make any difference which way the coolant flows through the heater matrix.  

 

I can't think of any issues anyway.  Maybe it won't bleed air bubbles so effectively, IDK.


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#16 boosted

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Posted 28 June 2020 - 02:58 PM

I swapped mine around as it get hose an inch extra away from turbo manifold and dp...

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#17 pcaligari68

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Posted 01 July 2020 - 04:28 PM

I suppose it doesn't really make any difference which way the coolant flows through the heater matrix.

I can't think of any issues anyway. Maybe it won't bleed air bubbles so effectively, IDK.

Looks better now its the right way round...

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#18 pcaligari68

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Posted 03 July 2020 - 10:24 AM

Reassembly is going well and I have discovered what killed the waterpump in 10k miles. Whoever worked on it last put the wrong belt on the alternator. With the adjuster fully loose you can't get the belt on and off. It's the aircon belt!! All that stress on the bearings was really not good... slight pause in works to go get the correct belt.ba4350435f06b337aa3dd5c69a38b8f3.jpg

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#19 pcaligari68

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Posted 05 July 2020 - 07:54 AM

Job done... new belts... new waterpump.. new hoses... fresh oil... and some tarty gold paint.

Happy days... now where is the sun?2a3b5c1ba05dd6b08ae175bb16012540.jpg

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