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Steering Wheel Puller For My 2007?


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#1 Sidni7

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 10:04 AM

I've placed an order with Royal Steering Wheels (exciting stuff!) and once it arrives, I have 2 weeks to return my original and get my £100 deposit back.

 

I'm feeble  :D  and think I will need a puller to get the steering wheel off, but I don't want to spend £30 to use it once. Can't find a hire place around the Northwich area. Halfords and Screwfix don't have them on their website. Can anyone who's done this recently recommend any of the cheap brands from eBay?

 

Thanks.


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#2 boosted

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 04:52 PM

Just wiggle top bottom side to side...itll pop off.
Push/ pull 12 3 6 9 oclock...

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#3 atlex

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:17 PM

 I recommend a rubber mallet wrapped in a t-shirt. or something else like that. tappety tap on the side and from behind. anything should losen it.


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#4 Sidni7

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:26 PM

Thank you both. Maybe even a weakling like me can do it. I’ll give it a go. Looking forward to posting a pic of my new wheel.


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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:30 PM

You can do it!! My nardi on my mk1 took 15 mins to yield to me.
Good luck

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#6 IanC

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 09:33 PM

Leave the nut on a couple of turns so you don't get the wheel in your face.


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#7 atlex

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 10:04 PM

IanC is wise :-) 

 

lastly.. if you've got a can of compressed air (the kind for cleaning keyboards) you can use it to cool/shrink the nut/spline that wheel is attached to. Or if you've got a little gas jet like the kind used in some soldering irons use that on the metal body of the wheel's boss part, obviously, to cause it to expand... ahem.


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#8 Sidni7

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Posted 01 February 2021 - 09:34 AM

You’re right, I don’t want a black eye. Thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I feel a bit better about giving it a go now.
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#9 Shadowraven

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Posted 01 February 2021 - 04:17 PM

As above leave the nut on.

 

I'd try it first, just give it an energetic wiggle and I think you'll fine it'll come off without too much drama, mine was a lot easier than I expected. Just remember the shaft is splined, you arent trying to twist it side to side as it'll just jam up on the splines but break it free front to rear, I found tapping one side then the next in rapid succession like you were drumming was enough and it loosened easily.


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UKDM 1998 1.8 Mk2 Sport - Current mods-  Custom 6 point chassis mounted front splitter and sideskirt extensions, battery cut off switch, OEM 'small skirts' and lip, HEL braided brake lines, OEM front upper strut brace with MC brace and mazdaspeed sticker, custom made 2" high flow catback exhaust, Japspeed 4-1 exhaust manifold, Lorber 15" alloys in fiat 750 maroon volcano, uniroyal rainsport2s, Ebay special JDMyo! gear knob, tinted indicators, colour coded reflectors, black headlight inserts, LED sidelights, SMD number plate bulbs, dimpled and grooved mtec brake discs, mintex brake pads, de-tango'd headlights, amber bulbs, RGB footwell lights, SMD interior light, Deltastyling spoiler, foamectomy seats, mazdaspeed seat belt pads, ring ultimax headlight bulbs, IL Motorsport style bar in custom paint, ford fan washer jets, Skidnation coolant reroute with Kia thermostat housing, Gates 22436 radiator hose with hose bracket, 82/85 degree twin valve thermostat, D1 spec engine bay dress bolts, stainless steel bolts throughout engine bay, EGR blanking kit, painted brake calipers, painted tow hooks front and rear, wrinkle painted cam cover, de-greened dials with white SMDs, red needles, painted cigarette lighter, painted oil filler cap, custom made cup holder, painted radiator retainers, polished slam panel, painted alternator, painted upper manifold, painted throttle body, painted header heat shield, painted relay bracket, painted loom brackets, painted diagnostics box bracket, painted wash fluid brackets, painted ABS brackets, painted airbox brackets, painted horns and brackets, painted throttle cable brackets, painted charcoal canister brackets and hard piping, painted wiper rods, painted engine hooks, painted clutch line bracket, Jass offset license plate bracket, offset square plate, 1lt foam fire extinguisher on custom bracket and custom Velcro retaining strap, POR15 rust proofed to within an inch of it's life, cavity waxed and fully seam sealed
 
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Sold- UKDM 1992 1.6 Mk1 SE - Current mods- Yokohama A048 semi slicks, 15" Lorber 7JJ deep dish alloys, Tein street springs on OEM dampers, IL Motorsport catback exhaust, IL Motorsport decat, K&N greenstuff filter, OMP 330mm racing wheel, TR Lane half cage, TR Lane harness bar, Elise bucket seats, Sparco 4 point harness, Ebay special JDMyo! gear knob, GV lip, Vindii ducktail
 
 


#10 Quinvy

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 11:44 AM

Mine was a real swine to get off. And I did give myself a very eye watering smack in the mush.


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#11 Sidni7

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 09:19 AM

Can’t wait to get busy.


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#12 atlex

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 01:52 PM

I've been thinking of my mallet approach :-)

 

yes, losen the nut but not all the way, as discussed.

 

then wrap that mallet/heavy object in a towel or something so it can't mar the car or existing wheel

 

then with the door open hit the wheel from 'behind' below, i.e. from the footpedals up to the bottom/back of the wheel.

 

then turn the wheel 180 degrees or 90 degrees and repeat.

 

you need some space to swing, see.


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#13 Sidni7

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 08:30 PM

I thought I had to leave the steering wheel straight so I can align the new one?
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#14 atlex

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Posted 04 February 2021 - 07:23 PM

I thought I had to leave the steering wheel straight so I can align the new one?

 

Keep the nut on a few turns from tight, this will keep the wheel's boss on at least 50% of the length of the splines, which should be perfectly safe to turn especially with the power steering on.

 

You're bashing the wheel to loosen up the engagement of the boss with the splines, not to get the wheel off, until you're ready, at which point you take the nut all the way off, ideally with the wheels straight and the steering wheel perfectly level.


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#15 Zed.

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Posted 04 February 2021 - 07:53 PM

just mark the column for the 'straight' direction....

Rich.


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50 Shades of Silver. '91 NA6CE, Not a show car :driving: 
Ohlins dampers, goin drysump, EPS, 4.778:1 & more ideas than time :yes:
Bodger :ph34r:

https://mighty5s.com...silver-na-eunos


#16 Sidni7

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Posted 06 February 2021 - 06:35 PM

Ok thanks. Royal Steering Wheels say it’ll be posted early next week, so it won’t be long now. I’m keen to get it over with.
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#17 Sidni7

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Posted 09 February 2021 - 01:27 PM

It arrived!

a208bf9b33514c4b7a16484a719b676b.jpg
Slightly thicker, printed leather top/bottom, perforated leather sides, black stitching.

Hoping to fit it Thursday or Friday when there’s someone home to help me.
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#18 Sidni7

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 02:23 PM

In the end, I assisted and hubby did the job.happy to say the old wheel came off very easily. Just needed a couple of light taps. Hardest bit was finding /understanding the torque settings. I believe the correct settings are:-

Centre bolt torque 29-36 inch lbs
Two airbag bolts torque 69-95 Newton-meters

Anyway, all done and I’m super-happy with it. Thanks everyone for the great advice. You were absolutely right that I didn’t need a steering wheel puller. And nobody got a black eye.

168d2ef23ee62bf58d67bb88cf968f06.jpg
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Posted 11 February 2021 - 02:30 PM

Cool looks smart

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#20 atlex

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 08:25 PM

woop!


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