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Barry Spiers' Mini Sc Installation
Posted 11 December 2009 - 12:09 AM
Don't ask me questions about it, this was developed by Barry!
Posted 11 December 2009 - 12:10 AM
Ok, Here’s the build info, hopefully this will help others who wish to do this, please note that I am fitting this to a Mk1 and I will assume that you at my level of Supercharging knowledge, ie low!!:
The bits you need:
Eaton m45 Mini Cooper S Charger (price range varies, I paid £180, Mr Fast got one for a tenner!)
The Bypass Valve (you can pick these up at the BMW Mini suppliers)
TB’s Dummy Throttle (TB) body or 2nd TB if you intend going duel TB
Mounting Bracket Email me if you need the cad drawing (1.6 or 1.8).
EMU/Gauges/WB o2 sensor. I have used Megasquirt (MS) 1 V3 and an Innovate LC-1 WB o2 Sensor, I will not be covering these during this build post. However, it is worthy of note that if you use MS or a similar stand alone ECU it will make the hardware build easier as much of the pipe work that is currently on the air intake can be binned.
Various pipe work and fitting plates. See below for detail.
OEM Exhaust Manifold heat shield. You will need to remove this to allow the SC to fit. I bandaged the pipes then used a Track Dog Racing flexible heat shield on top of that.
Air Filter. Yep, you will need one of these!
Belt Tensioner. Various options for this, but suffice to say you need one, email me if you want a cad drawing. With regard to pulleys, expensive option – Moss SC pulleys, cheaper option – 2x non adjustable cam belt pulleys from mx5parts.
Belt. The type and size of the belt will depend on the spec of your car (A/C, P/S etc) and if you wish to go for a 6 rib. I am standard 1.6 Eunos with AC and PS so I went for a 4pk1368 and this fits a treat.
Gasket Paper. A template can be easily made by placing a piece of A4 paper over the bit that needs a gasket then holding the paper in place get a wax crayon and lightly trace over the area, transfer that to the gasket paper and away you go. This is also great when you need to cut out the metal plates that you will need.
Mini Filters. Yep, you will need two of these, one for the cam cover and one for the idle air pipe on the inlet manifold TB. Ebay is your friend.
Now a bit of info on the parts:
There are different variants of the Mini Cooper S Eaton charger, the one I used was a 5th generation charger with Teflon covered blades. There are bits of the SC that will not be needed and I have binned them. Firstly, the PTO plate at the back, I did not need this so I removed it and put an ali plate in its place:
Next the front lug, if you intend making an outlet similar to mine this lug will need to go, just saw it off and file it flat (watch out for the swarf, make sure all openings on the charger are covered up or taped up)
The inlet is next, I will tell you what I have done, but its up to you how you do this bit. You need to have a seal from the inlet pipe to the SC inlet, I sawed off the lip on the inlet and then filled it flat (using the draw file method). If someone comes up with a inlet fitting where you do not need to do this – grate, but no one has come up with a design that will fit as yet (the OEM Mini inlet will not work, I have tried!)
You will then need to drill holes into the SC to hold the bolts (be careful here, there is little margin for error) I drilled and tapped for m5 bolts on the left and clear holes for nuts and bolts on the right.
Next is the plastic insert below the SC inlet. You need to seal this, I removed the plastic bung and filled it with J-B Weld, there are various ways to seal this, its up to you really.
The SC Outlet. If you want to do one the same as me I will send you the CAD drawing, if you want to do something different – Go for it! All I would say is the pipe needs to be 2.5 inch and there needs to be a good seal where it connects to the SC.
The Inlet. The design of the inlet is limited by the amount of available space behind the SC. I made mine in 2 stages, firstly I made the inlet plate to fit the SC inlet that you have cut and filed, then I made one end of the 90 degree 2.5 inch tube oval to fit that plate (crush in vice and use hammer to make a nice oval shape) then cut out that oval shape in the inlet plate, this will be welded later. The final bit of stage one is to make the plate to hold the TB, this is easy, just use a TB Gasket from mx5parts as a template. Take your time doing this and have the SC mounted so you can get these element straight before you weld, you don’t want to be doing this twice like I had to!! Then get it all welded up.
Stage 2 of the inlet will be done depending what TB option you choose, single or Duel TB (duel TB will allow an easier build!) I will assume you are going for Duel TB. The pipe I used was 1.5 inch with a 90 degree bend. The first thing to do is make the plate that will hold the bypass valve and loosely connect that to one end of the 90 degree, you now need to cut, file and shape the other end so you have a nice join to the 2.5 inch inlet pipe, the other end of the bypass valve needs to match up with the pipe on the outlet, I will let the pictures speak for themselves! Once your happy, get it all welded up.
You can remove the bottom fitting of the SC side TB and make a blanking plate, this can be seen in the image below (bottom right).
You can also remove the black connector of the SC side TB (at the top of the picture), when removed you will be left with a lug saw this off and make a blanking plate: Afternote - If you are going the megasquirt route there is no need to remove this bit.
The Mounting Brackets. This for me was the hardest part to get right as there is little room for error (the final bracket was Mk7!!) I have 2 cad drawings, 1.6 and 1.8 Mk1. A few points to consider:
1. I designed this mount for a 1.6 Mk1, Mr Fast designed the 1.8 mount.
2. The mount was designed using an OEM ex manifold, if you have an after market manifold it may fit, it may not!
3. It will not fit with the OEM manifold heat shield (see ‘the bits you need’ above)
4. It was designed for use with a 4 rib (4pk) belt, if you intend using a 6pk belt you may need to move the charger forward and adjust the bolts accordingly.
5. The rear mounting hole is not as deep as the front hole.
With the charger fitted I have placed plastercine across the complete top of the SC and closed the bonnet, there is ½ inch space to the bonnet strengthener so hopefully this will be ok, if not, a small piece of the bonnet strengthener can be dremmeled out, I don’t think this will be necessary.
In addition to the main mounting bracket, I have placed a support strap underneath the SC to the PS engine mount, it attaches to the threaded hole under the SC pulley and the bolt that attaches to the belt tensioner, the bolt under the LH tensioner pulley, you will need to buy a longer bolt for this task (m10x1.25pitch x 2.5 inches long). I have probably over engineered these brackets but better to be safe than sorry.
Duel TB brackets and cables. See the pictures below they are self explanatory. I could not find a cable to fit so I made my own with adjustments both ends (one end adjustment will suffice)
Lets move on to the build
Remove all the old OEM air bits from the car (good opportunity for a clean!!) Here I have fitted the manifold tape and the TDR heat Shield.
Next, fit the belt tensioner and PS support bracket, I have indicated by the screwdriver where the extended bolt goes that holds the SC bottom brace bar.
Here you see the SC mounted complete with inlet and bypass valve pipe work, note that there is not a great deal of space at the back of the charger and the windscreen washer bottle will have to be relocated. Note - Before fitting and with the inlet pipework fitted I decided to flie about 5mm off the bottom of the SC inlet and inlet plate, this gave me a bit more clearance from the exhaust manifold.
Note - if you are using dual TB's there will not be enough vacume to actuate the bypass valve, therefore you will have to take the vacume feed from one of the nipples on the inlet manifold on the engine, if you dont do this you will hear a squeeling from the charger when its running and the bypass valve will not operate.
I am having a new crossover pipe made so I used a temporary method to check the operation of the charger, here you can see the megasquirt sensor fitted to the inlet manifold (I used a washer either side of the silicone and locked it off using the bung (with locktite) I would not recommend this as a permenant solution. You can also see the mini air filter fitted to the idle air pipe on the TB (post charger)
How much did it all cost?
Man hours - too many to mention, even my wife knows how to build one of these!!
Megasquirt - Around £200
Innovate LC-1 WB o2 Sensor with gauge - Around £200
Eaton M45 Mini Cooper SC 5th Gen - £180
Bypass Valve - Around £25-30
Belt tensioner - I made one
Pipe Work - God knows, I wasted alot getting the inlet right!
I recon the total bill will be £750-800, but when you consider you do not get a megasquirt and LC-1 WB sensor (total £400) with the JRSC and these cost £1200-£2300 - its a bargain!!
Thats it really, hope this thread has helped if you want to go down the Mini SC route, I will post some more vids when I have tuned the car, this is a quick one I took on the first fitting
Afternote - I think I have cracked the dual throttle body calibration, its alot quieter when diving.........until you hit the loud pedal!! I have not driven it hard yet but I am really impressed with the power. Heres a quick vid with my newly painted cam cover, I suppose I will need to paint the inlet now
my email is [email protected] ........ ENJOY
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