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Need To Drill Out Wheel Stud


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#1 hemingway

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 12:55 PM

Hi there, Just bought a 1.8 mk2, every thing was great till i had a puncture and discovered the locing wheel nut was shot, looks like someone has had a chisle to it. There is no locking wheel nut key with the car. I have got the other 3 off by hammering a 14mm socket on. The fact remains that i can't get the last one off, there is not much left of the nut. I have tried to drill into it but seems to be hardened, my drill bits won't touch it, is there some sort of hardened drill bit i need to get? also is it easy to put a new stud in once the old one is out?

Any help would be much appreciated.
Regards
Steve
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#2 Only MX5ives

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 01:23 PM

They literally press in and out.

Remove hub and put in a press.
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#3 kaitai

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 01:46 PM

Hi there, Just bought a 1.8 mk2, every thing was great till i had a puncture and discovered the locing wheel nut was shot, looks like someone has had a chisle to it. There is no locking wheel nut key with the car. I have got the other 3 off by hammering a 14mm socket on. The fact remains that i can't get the last one off, there is not much left of the nut. I have tried to drill into it but seems to be hardened, my drill bits won't touch it, is there some sort of hardened drill bit i need to get? also is it easy to put a new stud in once the old one is out?

Any help would be much appreciated.
Regards
Steve


No need to take the hub off, just get a hammer and hit the stud flat on and it'll push it through the hub flange. Get yourself a new stud and push it back through the hole from behind and wind it out with a spare wheel nut. Make sure you put a washer between the nut and flange so as you don't score the flange.

Depending how much of the locking wheelnut you have left, try a smaller 12 sided socket (one you don't mind throwing away) and bash it onto the wheelnut.

Good luck
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#4 indykid

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 02:15 PM

No need to take the hub off, just get a hammer and hit the stud flat on and it'll push it through the hub flange. Get yourself a new stud and push it back through the hole from behind and wind it out with a spare wheel nut. Make sure you put a washer between the nut and flange so as you don't score the flange.

Good luck


if you're going to use a wheel nut to pull the new stud in, make sure you put loads of grease on the threads. not only does it make it easier but it stops the threads picking up on eachother and making your brand new wheel stud scrap.

you may struggle to pull it in straight if you're using closed end nuts with a taper. better off trying to get hold of an open nut with a square back shoulder and run the nut down backwards iyswim.

tom
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#5 malcpw

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 03:22 PM

No need to take the hub off, just get a hammer and hit the stud flat on and it'll push it through the hub flange. Get yourself a new stud and push it back through the hole from behind and wind it out with a spare wheel nut. Make sure you put a washer between the nut and flange so as you don't score the flange.

Good luck


if you're going to use a wheel nut to pull the new stud in, make sure you put loads of grease on the threads. not only does it make it easier but it stops the threads picking up on eachother and making your brand new wheel stud scrap.

you may struggle to pull it in straight if you're using closed end nuts with a taper. better off trying to get hold of an open nut with a square back shoulder and run the nut down backwards iyswim.

tom

Or turn wheel nut upside down to give square face.

From some parts suppliers you can buy a set of sockets that are designed to do this job could try the Laser or Sealey catalogue.

As per

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...-...A2|240:1318

Malcolm
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#6 indykid

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:26 PM


you may struggle to pull it in straight if you're using closed end nuts with a taper. better off trying to get hold of an open nut with a square back shoulder and run the nut down backwards iyswim.

tom

Or turn wheel nut upside down to give square face.

Malcolm


that was what i meant by 'better off trying to get hold of an open nut with a square back shoulder and run the nut down backwards iyswim.' i think between us, we got there. :thumb-up:

tom
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#7 hemingway

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 11:47 AM

Thanks for all your help, The main problem is getting the wheel off, the nut is well smashed, no chance of getting a socket on like i did with the other 3 locking nuts. the only way is to drill or grind, can't get in with a grinder, which leaves drilling, trouble is i have a cobalt drill bit but it did not touch it. the nut and stud are too hard.

cheers
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#8 Only MX5ives

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 11:59 AM

Oh...

Post up a pic.

I can't see how it can be too damaged to get some sort of removal tool on it.

Otherwise its a sharpened chisel to the nut to crack it.

Or possibly a dremel ?

I'd concentrate on the nut not the stud.
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#9 malcpw

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 08:41 PM

Oh...

Post up a pic.

I can't see how it can be too damaged to get some sort of removal tool on it.

Otherwise its a sharpened chisel to the nut to crack it.

Or possibly a dremel ?

I'd concentrate on the nut not the stud.

I'd go with Only MX5ives approach but chiselling may not be very productive due to the taper of the nut and it depends on how hard the locking nut is.

Thinking a little outside the box. Is the car still mobile?

1. Go to a tyre fitting emporium see if they can help, they must come across this from time to time.

2. Find a local company that does stud welding and get them to weld a socket to what's left of the nut.


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#10 kaitai

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 09:13 PM

Send a pic...we use a locking wheel nut remover at work which is effective 70% of the time. Success depends on type of locking wheel nut. These tools are basically toughened sockets with an anti-clockwise thread... It bites into the nut the more you undo. They usually come in 3 sizes. Whether this will work depends on how much of the nut you have left.
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#11 the ginger ninjer

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 09:23 PM

Had to do this on my 5 when I first got her, I drilled all around the wheel nut with high speed twist bits (3mm) then drilled again with 5mm bits, think I used up about half a dozen of each (keep dipping them in oil to lube them) this also destroyed the stud but did get the nut off, you can then knock the stud out of the hub (no need to remove it) and fit the replacement, I just used another wheel nut (reversed) to draw the new stud fully into position. Sounds easy but the Bastard took me all day :baseballbat:
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#12 steel-jaw-sasha

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 10:43 PM

fancy a trip over to harrogate I could give you a hand?
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#13 Giff

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 11:09 PM

There is a tool that should work, can't remember what its called but its basically like a large plug socket filled with what look like wires, as you push it on to the nut it takes up the shape allowing you to removed the most mishaped bits of metal left on a thread.
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#14 Giff

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 11:12 PM

Only goes up to 19mm...
http://cgi.ebay.co.u...1QQcmdZViewItem
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#15 Avoneer

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 11:38 PM

As above - your not trying to drill with a big drill bit are you - that would blunt any drill bit straight away.

You need to start with a 2mm or 3mm and work up in 2mm gaps - it will drill.

Pat...
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#16 hemingway

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 12:01 AM

Thanks for the help, there is nothing left of the nut to get anything on it, just the taper bit that goes into the wheel, I think I am using a drill bit that is too big, i will try with a small drill bit tomorrow and slowly increase in size.

Thanks for all your help,
I will keep you posted
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#17 Avoneer

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 08:04 AM

And get some pics.

We like pics.
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#18 indykid

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 10:35 AM

As above - your not trying to drill with a big drill bit are you - that would blunt any drill bit straight away.

You need to start with a 2mm or 3mm and work up in 2mm gaps - it will drill.

Pat...


the main problem is that you can't get enough force behind the drill to keep it cutting. as soon as the bit starts spinning on the surface without cutting, it will heat up and harden the material so it's even harder to cut next time. stainless is even more prone to this than mild steel. if you had a pillar drill, there'd be no problem dropping a 12mm drill straight through plate, but to reduce the cutting area such that you can apply sufficient force you need to go at it in a few hits

i'd tend to suggest steps of 4mm and start with a 4 or 5mm drill unless you like replacing your small drill bits. say 4,8,12mm
the main problem with drilling in too small steps is that the drill will tend to grab and you'll snap the tips off the larger drill bits rendering them scrap unless you're good with a bench grinder.

are you drilling the stud or the nut?
tom
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#19 dotterel59

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Posted 07 February 2009 - 02:33 PM

Is the nut "blind" i. e. you can't see stud end? If so you could grind the surface away using a B & D powerfile (really useful tool). This would expose the end of the stud and leave it dished so that a drill bit can bite.

Sorry must read posts more carefully - you have the stud exposed. In this case a powerfile will work a treat - the business end is only 12mm, so it would fit down into the recess.

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#20 dotterel59

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Posted 07 February 2009 - 05:07 PM


Here's some pics:-
powerfile
powerfile2

Some big DIY stores stock powerfiles, but most don't. B&Q stock the belts for them, but they are much cheaper from Screwfix.

Hope this helps

Pete
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