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1.8 Mk2 With Megasquirt
Posted 21 November 2013 - 08:54 PM
I was toying with the idea of a pnp megasquirt as the first step, so my question is, if I dnt end up boosting, will I have rly benefitted in just replacing the ecu and tuning a little or should I rly decide for certain if I'm going to boost before I blow my £550?
Also is it worth at this point buying a wideband O2 sensor or wait until I go FI?
I'm aware there's plenty discussion on this but nothing iv found specifically answers my question
Posted 21 November 2013 - 09:33 PM
You can get a bit but not a huge amount, best to combine it with a free flow exhaust, header and induction kit (proper ones with an actual CAI).
The guys at miata.net have alot of info on their site about this and i think it was 949racing that quoted this below in the link I've provided. Worth having a look at. Notice this is wheel horsepower too.
Cost no object, I suspect someone could build a 300whp grenade that runs on exotic fuel. In the real world 150-190whp is doable within the budget of the most of us.
150whp is bolt-ons and a good tune. Above that you need to go into the motor.
160-165whp is just a little bowl work and compression.
170whp requires more substantial head work or mild cams or lots of compression, pick one.
185whp requires mild cams (still streetable in a VVT), compression, porting. Pick two.
195whp full head work, lots of compression and mild to medium race cams.
205whp+ is pretty much a full race engine with cams that would probably never idle for street use.
225whp+ so and the life expectancy begins to shorten. Perhaps 15-30 race hrs and you're looking at a $15-20K long block.
We have just touched 180whp on stock cams with an NB2 motor but it was not cheap. Based on the data from that experiment, I know 190whp on stock cams is possible with IRTB's, more compression and E85. At that point however, you should just feed it the cams it wants. We played with stock cams to gain a higher BFSC for endurance racing.
For most guys, I think a stock-ish cam NB2 build makes the most sense. Run as much compression as your fuel will stand, get the best ECU you can, build a Honda B series manifold grafted onto the Mazda flange, RB/Maruha/Maxim works header, fully port and polish the head. Forged everything, SUB's and heavier valve springs. That should net and easy 175whp or so, be safe to 8000rpm sustained, idle like a stocker and last 100 race hours.
UKDM 1998 1.8 Mk2 Sport - Current mods- OEM 'small skirts' and lip, OEM front upper strut brace with MC brace and mazdaspeed sticker, custom made 2" high flow catback exhaust, 15" Lorber 7JJ deep dish alloys, BP5A intake cam, uniroyal rainsport2s, Ebay special JDMyo! gear knob, tinted indicators, colour coded reflectors, black headlight inserts, dimpled and grooved mtec brake discs, mintex brake pads, custom number plate relocation bracket, de-tango'd headlights, amber bulbs, RGB footwell lights, Deltastyling spoiler, foamectomy seats, mazdaspeed seat belt pads, painted brake calipers, painted tow hooks front and rear, wrinkle painted cam cover, de-greened dials with white LEDs, painted needles, painted cigarette lighter, painted oil filler cap, custom made cup holder, painted radiator retainers, polished slam panel, painted alternator, painted upper manifold, painted throttle body, painted heat shield, painted relay bracket
Sold- UKDM 1992 1.6 Mk1 SE - Current mods- Yokohama A048 semi slicks, 15" Lorber 7JJ deep dish alloys, Tein street springs on OEM dampers, IL Motorsport catback exhaust, IL Motorsport decat, K&N greenstuff filter, OMP 330mm racing wheel, TR Lane half cage, TR Lane harness bar, Elise bucket seats, Sparco 4 point harness, Ebay special JDMyo! gear knob, GV lip, Vindii ducktail
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