[Dubbernut]

Picked up a nice Carbing jobbie this morning and have started to trial fit it. The main hoop is ok and lines up well to the seat belt mounts etc, the door bars seem to be ok although seat travel is reduced but the buggest problem ive got is the two main rear stay bars. Do these mount on the rear shelf or do i need to cut through and mount them on the boot floor. If i put them into the rear shelf they stick out about 3 - 4 inches to much over the main hoop and it looks like there is no way on earth the will fit there. On the othwer hand if i bolt them to the main hoop it looks as though they will be 3 - 4 inches from touching the boot floor.
Any advice helps or pics of ones you have fitted would be most welcome as the wife dont like me spending money for it not to work.....lol.

[COLINK@JDMPASSION]

They fit through the rear shelf i have done two now and a bit fiddly but well worth it in the long run, best tip is once you have the rear shelf out(a right bugger to do) cut it in half its much easier to refit two sections rather than one. If you need help/questions answering pm me okey dokey

[rokerman]

You will need to remove the carpet and cut through into the boot.

Take out your spare wheel and you will see the space where one goes.
On the other side remove the metal plate that covers the fuel pipe and again, you will see where that leg goes.

To bolt them down, you will need to remove the inner wheel arch, drill a hole, line them up and bolt them in place. This is the hardest part of the install.

[COLINK@JDMPASSION]

Oh and cutting the rear parcel shelf carpet is an art as well

[Dubbernut]

Cheers fells that helps alot.....busy day tommorow i feel

[Dubbernut]

Not to bothered about the carpet if im honest. MX5's dont have the plushesd of interiors anyway so it may stay out.

[retrorocket]

COLINK@JDMPASSION, on Feb 9 2008, 03:32 PM, said:

Oh and cutting the rear parcel shelf carpet is an art as well

make a templete from thick cardboard to match carper ( use stud points to locate on shelf in car ) and cut / mark that to show where tubes pass through ..... transfer these markings to the carpet and cut ( keep fingers crossed ) !!!

[saz9961]

The Carbing 6-pointer was the 1st jap rollbar I fitted (done 3 so far; Carbing, Safety21 and D-technique). General points:

1. Make sure the main hoop in in the right place. I found I had to cut the caulking found at the bulkhead-floor join back to bare metal. If you don 't do this, the positioning of the bar is all wrong.
2. You need to cut a fair bit of metal out of the shelf to get the rear stays in place. You'll probably have to move the main loom a bit to get the feet to sit flat. Double, triple check fitting before drilling; especially for the rear stays, as it is so easy to drill right into the main rear chassis legs.
3. The bolts joining the rear stays and main bar you will find are dangerously close to your head, unless you are below average height. I broke a Shoei helmet on these once. On reflection, replace these with dome head allen head bolts. No sharp edges. And then make sure its properly padded. With this rollbar, you might not be able recline the seat as you previously liked. With the side bars in place, aftermarket seats are tricky to fit. I had a Ligier G-Hold seat; a skinny fiberglass race seat. To fit that, I had to take an angle grinder to the fiberglass.
4. Before you start drilling into the footwell for the side bars, check if you really need these. The bolts for the door bars will hit the side of the stock seat. You can remove the plastic trim on the seat to clear it, but that looks a bit gash (but I did that). The side bar wrecked my right ankle.
5. Cutting the carpet; I don't cut holes in the carpet. Cut "X" shaped slits and tuck in the carpet around the tubing. In the foot well, the best way I found was to cut a slit where the tube passes through it (the bar must bolt to the floor, you can't bolt it on top of the carpet), then kind of bolt the bar up, while holding up the carpet. Most people fit the bar, the cut the carpet around it. The problem in the footwell is that the carpet ends will continually pop out, and end up looking tatty. If you were being fussy, B&Q sell in the plumbing section chromed plastic pipe finishers; two halves that clip together to go around a pipe. You can use these around the tubing, on top of the carpet. The bore might need a bit of sanding though, depending on the tube diameter. Only about £2-3 for a pack of two.
6. Once you have fitted the rollbar, take it out again. Now paint all the holes; forget hammerite. It won't adhere very well. Between the rollbar and the floor, I put in a bit of caulking, to reduce vibration. Silicone will take the paint off and you may end up with corrosion. When fitted, give all the plates and nuts a coating of rubberised underseal. I did al this, and after 5 years, I removed the rollbar, to find everything factory fresh and rust free.

[Dubbernut]

Thanks for all the advice. Im going to a mates engineering/motorsport place on Saturday so it will be put in right and done by a pro for the price of a beer.......job done. Ill put some pics up when finished.